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1990
DOMAINE JACQUES FREDERIC MUGNIER 1990
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expert's opinions
My absolute star amongst red Burgundies is this one. Unfortunately, it is also missing from the Vinum tastings (though one can find the 1997 vintage there, rated with a stingy 18.5). If I were to be buried in Burgundy, I would wish for the corner to the right of Clos de Vougeot, the ten hectares of the Musigny site. The 1990 Musigny from Frédéric Mugnier remains to this day my absolute, ultimate favourite amongst all the red wines in the world, and if I have only one last bottle left, it is because I gave the others as a gift to a good friend in a fit of exuberance (or rather, in ignorance of things, they were hidden amongst a few bottles of simple Chambolle), who called me back a few days later in delight to tell me he had just drunk the best Chambolle of his life. But the happiness of my friends is my happiness… What makes this vintage so absolutely unique is its almost lascivious sensuality, the blend of fruitiness, delicacy and power.
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The colour remains deep for a wine of this age, and what follows confirms that initial impression. Indeed, the aromas are not immensely intense, despite the two hours of decanting I gave it. The main notes are blackcurrant, black cherry, faded roses, and soft oriental spices. On the palate, the structure is still quite compact — probably too much so to say that the wine is expressing its full potential today. In short, this cuvée does not deliver the velvety texture one might have expected, as encountered in other bottles. It is certainly very good, but not exceptional today. Clearly a pity, as this was my last bottle. One can only say that it either needs several more hours in a decanter, or an additional 6 to 10 years of ageing.
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Features
Vintage
Wine
1990
Classification
Burgundy - Grand Cru
Region
Burgundy
Appellation
Musigny Grand Cru
Colour
Red
Volume
0.75 l
Country
France
Alcohol content
13.00% vol
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